Say What?

Two nice surprises today: 1) il sole -- the sun -- came out today!  It was a welcome sight after two days of rain. And 2) the Alps! You can see them off in the distance from certain parts of Venice. I only discovered that today.

It's funny how many people come up to me and say something in Italian. I thought that with my red hair and clothes, I would stick out like a sore thumb as un turista -- a tourist. But people have stopped me and asked me in Italian for cigarettes, for directions to a cafe, and how to use the ticket dispenser at the train station. Those were the things I understood. A bunch of other people have said things I didn't understand at all. Most of the time, after I give them a blank look, they quickly switch to English.

I am enjoying learning Italian, but it's a slow process. I didn't really expect to learn much -- I'm only here for two weeks. How much can you possibly learn in that time? But there's one drawback I didn't anticipate: When you say something in Italian, they respond in Italian. Oops! Mostly I have no idea what they say. But I keep trying.

I'm also starting to think (in English) with an Italian accent. It's very annoying.

While riding the water bus I heard someone with a very thick Southern twang talking to her husband. They were from Arkansas. I know I've only been gone for a week, but I sure was glad to hear it. When Italians speak English, you have to concentrate. It makes your brain tired.

Last night my roommate and I went to dinner together. Her name is Satomi, and she is from Japan. She speaks very little English, and I don't know any Japanese. So we were forced to speak in very, very bad Italian with each other. I think we did more gesturing and making faces than actual speaking, but most of the time we got the point across.

We went to Paradiso Perduto. It's one of the few places in Venice that stays open very late, so it has some nightlife. And it's less than 10 minutes from our apartment. We only went for dinner, but it was great. Delicious food, some music, some wine, and a very casual atmosphere. It's the kind of place that Americans would like, but many locals go there too.

Satomi and me at Paradiso Perduto.

It's very easy to find bad food in Venice because of all the tourists. Here are a few things that could be a red flag (but not always):

1. The menu is in several languages.
2. A waiter is standing in the door trying to get you to come in.
3. They offer a "tourist menu."
4. You are within sight of St. Mark's Square or the Rialto Bridge.

Today I went to the island of Murano, the island of glass makers. When the Venetians mastered the art of making glass, the glass makers were forced to move to the small island of Murano so their furnaces would not set Venice on fire.

This tower was built on Murano as a lookout tower for fires. Next to it is a giant glass sculpture.

They are still making glass there today and you can watch a demonstration. You can buy glass there or in shops all over Venice. The shops don't like people taking pictures of their glass, but this link should give you idea of what it looks like.

Making the glass.

Murano's "Main Street." The tower in the distance is on the island of San Michele -- Venice's cemetery island.

San Michele. You can see tombs on the left inside the wall.

I also checked out the Lido today, Venice's beach island. I love the beach. Since today is Sunday, I thought it would be busy. There were people on the beach but only about 5 in the water. I guess beach season is over. Well, I might go again tomorrow and bring my swimsuit anyway. Tomorrow is supposed to be 75 and sunny.

At the beach!

Remember when I said everything is done by boat? Here are a police boat and an ambulance: